How Chinese fine dining is redefining America’s takeout perception

Many are set to introduce special interpretations of traditional Lunar New Year dishes for the Year of the Fire Horse, which commences on Tuesday LifestyleFood and DrinkHow Chinese fine dining is redefining America’s takeout perceptionMany are set to introduce special interpretations of traditional Lunar New Year dishes for the Year of the Fire Horse, which commences on TuesdayTerry Tang Monday 16 February 2026 11:17 ESTBookmarkBookmark popoverRemoved from bookmarksClose popoveropen image in galleryMany are set to introduce special interpretations of traditional Lunar New Year dishes for the Year of the Fire Horse, which commences on Tuesday (AP)Your support helps us to tell the storyRead moreSupport NowFrom reproductive rights to climate change to Big Tech, The Independent is on the ground when the story is developing. Whether it's investigating the financials of Elon Musk's pro-Trump PAC or producing our latest documentary, 'The A Word', which shines a light on the American women fighting for reproductive rights, we know how important it is to parse out the facts from the messaging.At such a critical moment in US history, we need reporters on the ground. Your donation allows us to keep sending journalists to speak to both sides of the story.The Independent is trusted by Americans across the entire political spectrum. And unlike many other quality news outlets, we choose not to lock Americans out of our reporting and analysis with paywalls. We believe quality journalism should be available to everyone, paid for by those who can afford it.Your support makes all the difference.Read moreTaiwan-born chef George Chen vividly recalls the reaction of his Los Angeles classmates in 1967 to his school lunch of braised pork and Chinese sauerkraut, served between two slices of bread. "Oh, God, what are you eating? That’s gross," Chen recounted during a busy lunch service at China Live, his San Francisco restaurant and bar on the edge of the nation's oldest Chinatown. "And now everybody wants the braised pork and Chinese sauerkraut. Hopefully, perception of Chinese (food) has now come a long way."The immigrant child who once felt compelled to conceal his food has since forged a reputation for delivering exquisite Chinese fine dining across the Bay Area. At China Live, Chen orchestrates a culinary spectacle, overseeing a bustling dumpling-making station, a stone oven roasting Peking ducks, a dedicated noodle station, and a dessert counter churning out sesame soft serve. His ambition extends to reviving his upstairs restaurant, Eight Tables, where multi-course dinners previously ranged from $88 to $188. Furthermore, he and his wife, Cindy Wong-Chen, are preparing to launch a similar venture, Asia Live, in Santa Clara.The Chens are not alone in their mission to elevate Chinese cuisine. Within walking distance of China Live are other established names such as Empress by Boon, Mister Jiu's, and the newer Four Kings. open image in galleryThe immigrant child who once felt compelled to conceal his food has since forged a reputation for delivering exquisite Chinese fine dining across the Bay Area (AP)Across the United States, from San Francisco to New York City, upscale Chinese American restaurants have emerged in recent years, generating considerable interest with their refined tasting menus that transcend typical Chinese takeaway fare. Many are set to introduce special interpretations of traditional Lunar New Year dishes for the Year of the Fire Horse, which commences on Tuesday. This creative deconstruction of Chinese foods is a hallmark of their culinary approach, as many chefs are keen to showcase their heritage.However, in an industry where diners seldom question the high prices of French haute cuisine or Japanese omakase, Chinese restaurateurs frequently encounter resistance when asking customers to pay fine-dining prices. Yet, these owners and chefs steadfastly maintain that their food, labour, and cooking techniques are equally deserving. "Why shouldn't I?" Chen asserted regarding his pricing. "Just because we’re in Chinatown? Or just because people’s perception of Chinese food is that it’s only good if it’s cheap? It’s not true."In New York's Hell's Kitchen, Bolun and Linette Yao opened Yingtao in 2023, named after Bolun's grandmother, with a clear mission: to present "contemporary" Chinese food as an elegant dining concept. Their Michelin-starred establishment offers a chef's tasting menu priced at $150. "We are trying to break this bias, this boundary of people who only think about like Sichuan food, Cantonese food, the takeout box," explained Bolun Yao, who holds immense respect for casual Chinese takeaway restaurants.open image in galleryThe immigrant child who once felt compelled to conceal his food has since forged a reputation for delivering exquisite Chinese fine dining across the Bay Area (AP)After completing a master's degree in food studies at New York University, Yao was determined "to build a bridge between traditional Chinese and the fine dining scene that New York people are familiar with." Emily Yuen, a James Beard Award semifinalist last year f