I went on a trek in Japan’s Northern Alps with a Japanese grandpa – and discovered the power of resilience

The writer, along with her cousin and sister, embarked on a four-day trek across Japan’s Northern Alps, crossing paths with a 75-year-old solo trekker from Hiroshima. The experience offered unexpected insights into resilience and camaraderie. Advertisement Travel I went on a trek in Japan’s Northern Alps with a Japanese grandpa – and discovered the power of resilience The writer, along with her cousin and sister, embarked on a four-day trek across Japan’s Northern Alps, crossing paths with a 75-year-old solo trekker from Hiroshima. The experience offered unexpected insights into resilience and camaraderie. 360-degree panoramic views on the Omote Ginza route in the Northern Alps. (Photo: Soh Wee Ling) New: You can now listen to articles. This audio is generated by an AI tool. Soh Wee Ling Soh Wee Ling 22 Feb 2026 06:58AM Bookmark Bookmark Share WhatsApp Telegram Facebook Twitter Email LinkedIn Set CNA as your preferred source on Google Add CNA as a trusted source to help Google better understand and surface our content in search results. Read a summary of this article on FAST. Get bite-sized news via a newcards interface. Give it a try. Click here to return to FAST Tap here to return to FAST FAST “I’m glad you are here and did not choose to go climb Mount Fuji,” a retired engineer from Hiroshima told us on our second day in the Northern Alps.My cousin, sister, and I were in Japan on a multi-day trek, hoping to scale four peaks including Japan’s fifth-highest mountain, Yarigatake (3,180m).Hastily organised after our initial plans to climb mountains in India and China fell apart, it was the first time three of us travelled together, thanks to supportive parents and spouses who stepped up to take care of our young children while we were gone.The only thing we had planned this trip was accommodation for the first two nights. Everything else we would decide on the go, sometimes on the same day.We confirmed our route in a kissaten, with my Japanese-speaking cousin doing the heavy lifting, navigating websites and calling hotlines to book various mountain huts. The writer (second from left) with her cousin, sister, and their new friend Ohata-san right at the end of their trek in Japan’s Northern Alps. (Photo: Soh Wee Ling) “The view is better here. You see nothing when you climb Mount Fuji. It’s nicer to see Mount Fuji than to climb it,” continued Ohata-san, a solo trekker planning to climb Yarigatake three years after lung surgery to celebrate his 75th birthday.He was right. In the Northern Alps, we were treated to days of breathtaking landscape – mountains rising through the misty dawn and granite outcrops interspersed with verdant alpine shrubs stretching endlessly under clear blue skies.TAKING THE OMOTE GINZA ROUTE First views of the mountains on Day 1 climbing from Nakabusa Onsen trailhead to Enzanso. (Photo: Soh Wee Ling) For the Omote Ginza route we had picked, we started at Nakabusa Onsen trailhead – two trains, one bus, and a van ride away from Tokyo – for a four-day three-night trek. We spent the night at Ariakeso near the trailhead so we could start early the next morning.We made sure to carry cash heading into the mountains knowing we would need it for everything – board, meals, and merchandise. From magnets, cotton neckerchiefs to tees, Japan has perfected the art of marketing souvenirs to entice even the most hardened non-impulsive climber. Creeping pine on the mountains of the Northern Alps. (Photo: Soh Wee Ling) Views on Day 2 between Enzanso and Hyutte Nishidake. (Photo: Soh Wee Ling) The writer's sister walking with Yarigatake, also called the Matterhorn of Japan, in front of her. (Photo: Soh Wee Ling) Walking in the cool forest was a gentle warmup for the steep trail ahead. As the forest gave way to our first views of the mountains, I was glad to have maintained my momentum.Contrary to expectations, there was mobile data on the mountains which was helpful for checking locations but we still had to conserve phone battery. Trekkers resting on benches with a view of Tsubakurodake outside Enzanso. (Photo: Soh Wee Ling) Tsubakurodake. (Photo: Soh Wee Ling) Arriving on the ridgeline with Enzanso to our left and Tsubakurodake (2,763m), marked 1km away, to our right, we made the mistake of heading directly to Tsubakurodake without putting down our backpacks, thinking it was just a short walk away.One of the oldest mountain huts in the Northern Alps, Enzanso has expanded into a sprawling facility with a main building and three annexes. Traveling in threes had its benefits: We were assigned a small private room. Enzanso with Tsubakurodake and surrounding mountain range minutes after sunrise. (Photo: Soh Wee Ling) It was somewhat embarrassing to admit that I got lost in Enzanso. Navigating the maze of narrow corridors between identical rows of bunk beds opening into common areas, I went through a nondescript doorway down a steep flight of stairs only to find myself in yet another dormitory instead of the main lobby I was expecting. I gave up and returned to our room to wait for my sister and cousin instead.For everything that has been said about Japanese toilets, I am sure those people have never encountered dry toilets in the mountains wher