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Raf Simons to close fashion label after nearly three decades

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It is speculated that the Belgian designer could close the brand due to a difficult financial market and focus on a position at Prada.

Raf Simons closes his namesake label after 27 years.

Announcing the news Monday in a brief statement on Instagram, the Belgian-born fashion designer revealed that the brand’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection, unveiled in London in October, would be her last.

“I don’t have enough words to express how proud I am of everything we have achieved,” she wrote. “Thank you all for believing in our vision and in me.”

While the reason for the brand’s closure is unclear, experts have speculated that it could be due to the turbulent financial market facing the fashion industry.

In November 2019, American designer Zac Posen closed his brand after 20 years in business, and in June 2020, New York-based brand Sies Marjan announced that it would close due to the financial impact of Covid 19.

There is also speculation that Simons wants to focus entirely on his role as creative director at Prada, alongside the company’s majority shareholder, Miuccia Prada. Prada stated during her February 2020 appointment that Simons will be “equally responsible for creative input and decision-making”.

Prada, 73, denied at the time that the decision was made in preparation for his eventual retirement.

The duo’s first co-design collection was launched digitally for Spring/Summer 2021 during Milan Fashion Week.

Simons has been hailed as one of the most celebrated contemporary fashion designers, having influenced both menswear and womenswear around the world. Famous fans of his include singer Rihanna and actors Emma Watson and Charlize Theron.

He was one of the original Antwerp Six, graduates of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, who brought their collections to London in 1986 for the British Design Show which preceded London Fashion Week.

The cohort, which includes Dries van Noten, Anne Demeulemeister and Walter van Beirendonck, has put Belgian fashion on the international fashion map while showcasing a progressive new aesthetic.

Simons launched his namesake label in 1995. Paying homage to youth culture and focusing on minimalist silhouettes like body cuts, he set a new precedent in menswear.

His idea of ​​inviting real people from the street to participate in his show was sensational at the time.

He later worked for Jil Sander, Dior and Calvin Klein before taking his current position at Prada.

For his latest show, Simons invited more than 1,000 guests, including fashion students, to the Printworks club in south-east London.

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What Fashion Retail Professionals Need to Know Today

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What Fashion Retail Professionals Need to Know Today

This month, BoF Careers provides essential industry insights for retail fashion professionals to help you make sense of the fashion retail landscape.
Discover the latest industry news and insights for retail fashion professionals updated monthly so you can stand out in job interviews, promotion conversations, or improve your performance in the workplace by expanding your market knowledge and emulating the leaders market.

BoF Careers pulls business intelligence from all of our content – editorial briefings, newsletters, case studies, podcasts and events – to provide key insights and insights tailored to your position, listed alongside a selection of the most exciting jobs posted by BoF. . Race partners.

Key articles and information needed by today’s retail professionals:

Discover the latest industry news and insights for retail fashion professionals updated monthly so you can stand out in job interviews, promotion conversations, or improve your performance in the workplace by expanding your market knowledge and emulating the leaders market.

BoF Careers pulls business intelligence from all of our content – editorial briefings, newsletters, case studies, podcasts and events – to provide key insights and insights tailored to your position, listed alongside a selection of the most exciting jobs posted by BoF. . Race partners.

Key articles and information needed by today’s retail professionals:

 

1. How some brands are surviving the retail downturn

Most major fashion companies have advised investors to brace for slower growth. In some cases, those predictions have come true: Earlier this week, owner Michael Kors Capri reported a six percent drop in sales in the latest quarter and cut its 2023 earnings forecast by 24 percent. [At the same time] shares of Tapestry Inc., the owner of Coach, surged after the company reported a record profit of $318 million in net income on $2 billion in sales, down 5 percent from last year. Ralph Lauren also impressed with a slight year-over-year increase in revenue as shoppers continued to buy his clothes even at higher prices.

What separates the winners and losers in a recession? Basically, these are strategies that these companies implemented long before inflation hit and the Federal Reserve started raising interest rates. Unlike Capri, Tapestry and Ralph Lauren controlled the prices of their products. Tapestry generates most of its sales through its own website or stores, while Ralph Lauren has prepared for its wholesale partners’ holiday sales ahead of the season. Capri, on the other hand, fell victim to rampant discounts at its partner department stores, where sales fell 20 percent.

2. Chanel is opening a beauty salon in Williamsburg this Summer

Chanel will open a store in , Brooklyn this June, according to a government construction announcement released Sunday. It’s the latest luxury brand to show interest in the trendy waterfront as the hybrid work-from-home lifestyle spreads to spending outside of Manhattan. This summer, Hermès will introduce a pop-up, and in 2026, a double-decker flagship.

But even the most affordable and big brands are interested in it. In November 2022, H&M launched an experimental pop-up site. […] In the same month, Glossier opened a permanent outpost in the neighborhood by painting hourly lines. “National and international luxury retailers have been eyeing vibrant and trendy neighborhoods like Williamsburg and Park Slope for years,” according to the New York City Real Estate Board’s Winter 2022 report.

3 Sephora London Debut Explained

According to market research firm Euromonitor International, the UK beauty sector represents a $13 billion opportunity for Sephora and is one of the last major markets where it has yet to operate. [However] the UK beauty market is characterized by fierce competition due to a very fragmented distribution network. UK shoppers have a huge choice, from pharmacy brand Boots to specialty retailer Space NK and luxury department stores such as Selfridges, Harrods, Liberty and Harvey Nichols. That’s more than e-beauty retailers like Cult Beauty, known for its selection of popular independent brands, and Beautybay, which caters to a younger, social media-savvy audience.

However, the decline of UK department store chains such as Debenhams and House of Fraser has left a niche market during the pandemic, especially in key regional cities such as Manchester, Newcastle and Bristol. Sephora has the opportunity to fill this gap in the market, especially as shoppers are excited to be back in stores after the pandemic. After all, physical stores are what Sephora does best.

4. Do DTC brands achieve physical success?

After the downturn during the pandemic, consumers have returned to shopping in person. In 2022, physical stores accounted for more than 70 percent of U.S. apparel and accessory sales, according to the Census Bureau. But not all digital brands have mastered their physical strategies yet.

Keeping physical stores running depends on whether the brand’s products and in-store experiences are interesting enough and different from their online experiences, analysts say. But brands will have to find a channel that will give them a competitive edge.

5. How to choose an intermediary partner

Brand resale is on the rise, with retailers ranging from Shein and Canada Goose to Mara Hoffman and Balenciaga adding a sort of used clothing to their stores or websites. But building a resale business from scratch is expensive and time consuming. Turning a profit is also not easy: most of the large resellers, such as The RealReal and ThredUp, are operating in the red.

A parallel white-label resale platform industry has emerged that does much of the behind-the-scenes work. Most of them charge a setup fee and then take a percentage of each sale, although services like Trove that do end-to-end logistics can be more expensive. Ultimately, launching a resale service should require the same focus and attention as developing a collection, according to Mimi Margalit, retail strategy consultant and former DTC merchandising director at Rebecca Minkoff. “Reselling is marketing,” said Margalit. “If you don’t choose the right experience, if you don’t choose the experience that your client finds most meaningful or resonates the most, then it won’t really be the most successful experience.

6. Inside the Fashion Ecommerce Management Battle

As online shopping has become a bigger part of retail, it has spawned an industry of e-commerce companies that promise brands and retailers a fast, hassle-free and hassle-free experience for their customers on the go across all channels and countries. Along with Shopify, there’s Commerce Cloud from Salesforce, Magento from Adobe, FPS from Farfetch, BigCommerce, and more. Each offers different features, but all compete for the ability to do the hard work on the back end, allowing brands and retailers to focus on manufacturing and marketing products.

In order to attract customers, e-commerce companies keep adding new offerings such as improved storefront capabilities, logistics solutions, and other options. According to Ryan Foster, director of e-commerce agency Fostr, which specializes in advising fashion and luxury brands, ultimately one platform differs from another in terms of flexibility and how much effort the developer requires from the brand.

7. Thebe Magugu wants to create an international brand without forgetting the customers at home.

When Tebe Magugu won the LVMH award in 2019, she rose to fame almost instantly. In the months that followed, she appeared at Paris and London Fashion Weeks, dressed for Rihanna, Naomi Watts and Lupita Nyong’o [and signed] partnerships with major wholesalers including Bergdorf Goodman, Net-a-Porter and Dover. Stall. He has become a coveted member of brands such as Dior, AZ Factory and Adidas.

Today, Magugu plans to continue serving this global base, he said, but will be careful to move out of the public eye, favoring private performances over large shows or presentations, and events outside of the traditional fashion calendar. She will also be prioritizing her local client base, who primarily shop on her website, which features her designs alongside her annual Faction Press, which she created is a blend of unexplored South African history and cultural reference. for the creative people of the country.

8. The future of fashion in auction houses

Auction houses are caring for a new generation. [Roman Krausl, professor of finance at the University of Luxembourg] points to the initial hype around the NFT market as evidence that young people are hungry for new ways to invest. He believes that the fallout from a cryptocurrency crash could lead buyers to acquire more tangible assets.

This comes at a time when fashion auctions are also attracting the attention of the public. Joan Didion’s Celine sunglasses sold for $27,000 at auction on online auction platform Bidsquare, and Karl Lagerfeld’s highly publicized estate raised over $18.5 million for Sotheby’s. At Christie’s auction, André Leon Talley’s estate raised almost $4 million last month after it was put on display during a busy Paris Fashion Month showcase and New York party. This week, Sotheby’s announced an auction of Michael Jordan’s “Last Dance” sneakers, which are expected to fetch between $2 million and $4 million.

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Goodbyes and good buys: Paris Fashion Week highlights

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Goodbyes and good buys: Paris Fashion Week highlights

It was “the strongest collection to date” from Chloe designer Gabriela Hirst.
Paris: Women’s autumn/winter season finally comes to a halt on Tuesday, after touring New York, London and Milan, before wrapping up in the French capital. Here are some of the highlights from the latest show series in Paris.

– Vivienne and Paco, goodbye –
Fashionistas said goodbye to two design titans of the 20th century.

Vivienne Westwood’s widower, Andreas Kronthaler, has unveiled a greatest hits collection that includes new versions of his iconic pirate boots, corsets, petticoats and platform shoes.

“Perhaps the most important thing they taught me was to put women on a pedestal,” she said in a poem that accompanied the show, as Westwood’s granddaughter, Cora Corre, ended the performance in an inappropriate wedding dress.

For Spanish eccentric Paco Rabanne, who died last month at the age of 88, it was a jingle of gold and silver dresses, a fitting tribute to the man who created the 1960s sci-fi “incredible dresses”.

– Humble core by Balenciaga –

When the ad bubble gets too big and bursts in front of your face, it’s time to reset your settings.

Balenciaga’s Demna is completely remorseful after a disastrous ad campaign last year that seemed to allude to child abuse (unintentionally, he insists).

No clever staging or provocative $1,500 trash bags this time, just a clean white room and trendy clothes. Call it the “humble core”.

Before the Fall, it would have been “glorified to the skies,” wrote the New York Times, but given the circumstances, “it looked more like a penitent march.”

– Buyer’s Delight –

For Harrods buyers, the highlights were Chloe, Rick Owens and Schiaparelli.

It was “Chloe designer Gabriela Hirst’s strongest collection to date,” said the department store’s head of womenswear, Clemmie Harris, which features “luxury fabrics… in newer, cleaner forms” and “instant gifts” like quilted capes. and sheepskin vests.

Rick Owens is constantly finding new twists on his dark, alien aesthetic, this time with dramatic layers and chunky wraps.

“While he is always true to his clear and compelling vision, he never stops pushing the boundaries,” said Simon Longland, Harrods Purchasing Director.

Praise was also received for Daniel Roseberry Schiaparelli’s first ready-to-wear show: “An important step in reviving the house… rich in production and execution details,” said Longland.

– Louis Vuitton eye lenses

The French brand’s hot streak was evident from the front row, which featured film stars Zendaya, Alicia Vikander and Lea Seydoux, as well as hip-hop artist Pharrell Williams, a new menswear designer.

The show was a mix of classic, elegant and inventive cuts, but it was the accessories like the luminous visors that caught the most attention.

– Pencil –

The latest fashion with her wrapping around the legs of Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, several brands seem to think it’s time to bring back the pencil skirt.

They were part of Dior’s homage to the 1950s, albeit in a wrinkled, less form-fitting form, while Saint Laurent paired them with oversized shoulder pads and aviator sunglasses to create a sort of ultra-chic fever dream of the decade from the 1980s. X.

The young designer Charles de Vilmorin made them out of vinyl for Rochas and, as he put it, “the silhouette of a pimp mermaid”. (AFP)

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Why Investing in Quality Women’s Designer Shoes is Worth It

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Investing in quality women’s designer shoes can be a great way to elevate your wardrobe. They are made with better materials, more comfortable, and more durable than budget or generic brands.

All designer shoes for women can also be a good investment because they can increase in value over time and may be able to be resold later for a profit. However, before you decide, you should carefully consider what you will be wearing the shoes for and how often you’ll be able to wear them.

They Are Made From Better Materials

Investing in quality women’s designer shoes is worth it if you are looking for a statement pair of shoes that can last you for years. Here are a few reasons why:

The materials used in designer shoes are usually of higher quality than those used by the cheap knock-offs at every store. They are often made from leather or a combination of leather and synthetic materials that will stand up to daily wear and tear much better than cheaper options.

This is because designer shoes are often stitched or cobbled manually by master craftsmen with decades of experience, making them far more durable than their cheaper counterparts. This also adds to the overall cost of the shoe, but it’s well worth it in the end.

Another reason that designer shoes are worth the splurge is that they are often made from eco-friendly, renewable, and recyclable materials. For example, some retailers collect recycled plastic bottles and cotton from the textile industry to create their innovative B-Mesh fabric that is light, breathable, waterproof, and, best of all, environmentally friendly.

They Are Made To Be Comfortable

Investing in quality women’s designer shoes is a smart choice, especially if you spend a lot of time on your feet. They will be more comfortable to wear than cheaper footwear and are often made to last longer than low-end knock-offs.

There are also a variety of shoes that are specifically designed for people with wide feet or bunions. These heels feature a deep V-shaped toe box that prevents crowding and pressure points from developing. They are also crafted from quality materials that will last a long time.

You can purchase these shoes at a fraction of the price you would pay for similar styles from a high-end retailer. You can get these shoes in various colors and designs to fit your style and needs.

In addition, you can easily swap out the shoes you buy from a high-end retailer for more casual or fun styles, making it easier to keep your wardrobe fresh. You can even buy a few pairs of designer heels and swap out the rest of your closet for other more comfortable shoes, such as sandals and boots.

They Are Made To Last

There are several reasons why investing in quality women’s designer shoes is worth it. One of the main reasons is that they are designed to last longer than cheaper alternatives. Another reason is that they are crafted from better materials.

Another way that designer shoes are made to last is because they are made with a higher level of craftsmanship than cheaper options. This makes them more durable and feels better on your feet.

In addition, you can also purchase shoes from designers who are making a positive impact on the environment. The most important thing to remember when buying women’s designer shoes is that you should buy shoes you are 100% in love with. The right shoes can be expensive, so you must weigh all the pros and cons before deciding.

They Are a Statement Piece

The benefits of investing in a pair of quality women’s designer shoes cannot be understated. They are often made from better materials, have better construction, and last longer. They are also often more comfortable than their cheaper counterparts. And they are often statement pieces that can be fashionably dressed up or down with various outfits.

Whether you are in the market for a new pair of heels, sandals, or sneakers, our collection of quality women’s designer shoes has something for every taste and budget. Investing in quality shoes is not a decision to be taken lightly. Before purchasing, consider where you will likely wear them, how often, and which style would be the most suitable. It is also important to consider the color and material of the shoes. You want to avoid ending up with a pair of designer shoes that are too shiny or slippery to walk in. Luckily, our extensive selection of luxury designer shoes has all the best fashion brands at the best prices in one place.

They Are Durable

One of the most important factors in the longevity of quality women’s designer shoes is the materials that they are made from. These include leather, suede, and other premium quality fabrics that will stay strong over time like cheaper, less durable materials.

In addition, the craftsmanship involved in making these shoes is extraordinary. They are hand stitched and cobbled by expert craftsmen who have decades of experience in shoemaking and use techniques passed down through generations. These shoes are more expensive than knock-offs made using lower-quality materials and production methods.

Another factor contributing to the durability of quality women’s designer shoes is their construction. These shoes are crafted with high-quality materials and premium workmanship, so they will last longer than cheaply made, cheaper shoes that are more likely to wear out.

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